Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Transitions: Are you there yet?



Many kind friends and family members, contacting me from across the Atlantic Ocean by means of the bountiful technology we are blessed to have at our fingertips, have been asking me the same question of late.
“How is it?” they ask. “Do you feel you have transitioned yet?”
I write in an effort to respond to all these kind enquiries (note the British spelling!) at once, because I am quickly getting terribly behind, for reasons I will note below, and I must admit, that my first, gut response is, “Of course not!”

It’s been three weeks last Saturday, and I left my funny little house in Boston, and friends and family, and country and custom and – some would posit – the English language itself to sit inside a small, enclosed space and embark on a completely different sort of life in a foreign country where I knew precisely nobody just one month ago.
True, I have found the grocery store, discovered that the power outlets here have to be switched on individually, registered for classes, and figured out how to use the funny little oven at my dormitory accommodation (admittedly, I did burn the bread on Sunday. It really is a funny oven).
I have a bank account (except they misspelled my last name somehow - do you think I should trust them with my money?), basic hygiene products, a doctor (called a GP) around the corner, a working knowledge of the streets and running routes around the University of Edinburgh, and some really lovely people who I tentatively but affectionately call friends.
My to-do list for the week is long and intimidating, but it includes things like studying Arabic, taking a classmate to church for the first time, doing coffee (in a broad sense only, I promise) with several potentially lovely contacts, and reading a book about the ongoing spread of Christianity into Africa.
So I am content.
And perhaps this means that after three, intense weeks, I have indeed “transitioned.” 
 
But the truth is that it is 11:53 p.m., and I attempted sleep at twelve after 10 because it was a very long day, and I was too tired to finish preparing for the two class presentations that are happening tomorrow, whether I am ready or not.
The truth is that I still have a rotten cold and my clothes are drying on the space heater (don’t tell the warden) because the washers don’t work very well, and money and job plans are bumping about uncomfortably in my head but I can't currently access my bank account from the UK, and I have to decide whether to apply for a PhD by November, and I actually don’t know whether my classmate meant it as a compliment earlier when he told me I was “doing a great job at playing the naiive American girl,” and transitions can be tough.
I am not asking for sympathy, not by a long shot, but I worry sometimes that Younger Readers might get the wrong impression if I restrict my writing to the Highland vistas and short them on the moments spent in a Scottish pharmacy, trying to decide which of a baffling array of products will stop me from coughing onto my professors.
 
To you, Young Readers and Young-at-Heart, I say: Even if you have stopped stock-still nearly every day of the last three weeks – sometimes amid a busy street-ful of Scottish traffic – to marvel at the grace of God and the miracle of being in Scotland for this masters program, and even if, like me, you can’t think of anywhere in the world you would rather be right now, nor anything you would rather be doing, and even if you overloaded you course schedule (apart from old habits dying hard) in an effort to express gratitude for the exquisite gift of this experience through hard work – transitions can still be tough.
People don’t tell you that your insides can take weeks to adjust to the new diet – and they respond accordingly. They don’t describe how lost, unimportant, and above all, lonely you can feel in a new city. 
 
They don’t tell you that culture shock is a real thing, or that the British educational system differs from the American one in some rather unexpected ways.
But there are other things they don’t tell you either, and so this is my paltry offering of wisdom for anyone who might move to a new city, start an educational program, serve a mission, switch countries, or simply try something so new and different that the little “Inside-Out” people in your head start to ask, “Would I have done this if I’d known it would be this hard?” or “Can this ever be worth it?”
I want to tell you that if you have to ask your Chinese flatmate for her name three different times she will forgive you eventually, as will the Arabic classmate who tried to befriend you, but you were waiting for the Ibuprofen to kick in and could hardly think straight until it did. 

Even when your friends and family are scattered across the globe anywhere from two hours ahead to eight hours behind and no one is answering your Facetime, there is One who will always pick up.
And He will tell you that it’s OK if it’s hard. That transitions are meant to be tough. That many of the people around you who seem to know just what they are doing actually want to call their mom tonight. Or buy a chocolate twist at Sainsburys. (Did you read “pastry” as in one? Because I meant three. Plus a box of chocolate-dipped Swiss rolls. Scotland really has good pastry.)
And if you keep smiling at the strangers next to you, and asking for their names yet again, and eating something other than pastry now and then, and making the hike to church and reading your scriptures, and showering at least every other day, it will get better. 

It will be better than you, looking at the glossy photos from your bedroom at home, could ever have imagined. And what you learn – and who you become - will be completely, utterly, totally worth it.

Sunday, September 25, 2016

Harry Potter World

“Let us step into the night and pursue that flighty temptress, adventure.”

Albus Dumbledore, Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince 


It has come to my attention that some people, upon seeing my photos, doubt that I am living in a real city, rather suspecting that I have entered some painted park or, like Alice, slipped through a window to a fantastic wonderland.
This post makes no attempt to disabuse them of that notion.

The beautiful city of *Edinburgh is where J.K. Rowling was living, working as a single mother, when she pinned "Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone" in a cafe called the Elephant House.



...which also makes a delicious marshmallow hot chocolate.

It's easy to identify places where she would have found inspiration. Just across the street from the Elephant House cafe is a cemetery where, rumor has it, names like "Tom Riddle" and "McGonagall" can be found.
 

Edinburgh also has an alleyway, a stone's throw from the School of Divinity at New College, that bears alarming resemblance to Knockturn Alley.

The discerning Potter fan might also experience castles for all occasions...
 
...suits of armor
 
...OWLS
 
broomsticks...
 
...and song.
 
“Ah, music," [Dumbledore] said, wiping his eyes. "A magic beyond all we do here!” 
Many in Edinburgh make wild claims about how Scotland inspired Madam Rowling's creative wizarding world. Surely this gothic, picturesque place, they say, needs a very few literary embellishments to be transfigured into a full-scale land of enchantment.

And I agree with them.

* One of my Scottish friends bids me inform you that Edinburgh is quite different from the rest of Scotland. I don't know what he means by it. But that's my only disclosure!

Wednesday, September 21, 2016

Falafel in Edinburgh

Tonight, I felt like a bit of a jerk. 
While buying a falafel sandwich for dinner last week, I overheard someone speaking in Arabic to a hummus-buying student. When my turn came, I brought my best, rusty Arabic to the forefront.
And so tonight, the worker I met last Friday picked me up after class. We drove around the beautiful city of Edinburgh (which was terrifying - imagine sitting in the passenger's seat on the left side of the car moving down the wrong side of a street that looks too narrow to admit cars while the driver shares his views on the Middle East!).

 He also shared his life story.

He is a Syrian refugee from Aleppo, working and studying in the UK while sending money to his family back in Turkey. Most of his friends are dead or missing, and he left his home country for the first time to avoid joining them, as military service is now compulsory for young men like him.
He talks about missing his friends and family, especially his sister and mother, who sacrificed to help him leave the country and start a new life here in Scotland. He told me how his mother stayed up with him through the night while he was studying for his entrance exams to the university. He misses asking her advice about decisions, girls, and life in general.
"Our moms sacrifice so much, and we never even realize it, until we get older," he says.
The process of reaching the UK and obtaining asylum was lengthy and arduous, but he is glad he came to Scotland, which he says is welcoming and kind. Edinburgh, with its castles and narrow streets, reminds him of Aleppo, although he finds the lack of religious observance puzzling and concerning.

He spent his first months working long hours to both situate his new life and send back to his family. He received his driver's license and bought a car, which - notwithstanding my having a minor panic attack every time we turned right on the left side of the road - he drives with deft skill. (I declined his offer to try driving.)
He is now working part-time so he can study. None of his certifications from Syria or Turkey transferred, he says in resigned frustration, but his English is improving steadily. He is going to have a marvelous Scottish accent actually. We practiced saying, "We'll get it sor'ed for ya!"
He laughs easily, tells me jokes in Arabic that I sometimes understand, and asks about my studies and family with interest. But we keep coming back to Syria and the war he views with pained, but not bitter, resignation.
"All we wanted was a little freedom," he says. "We didn't know that other countries would come in and start a war."

We drive up Arthur's seat, and he teaches me the Arabic word for duck. Then he buys me dinner at KFC - which is why I am a jerk.
I try to prevent it, honestly, but as my Arabic professor once told us in a cutting hyperbole, "I can't even imagine a situation in which an Arab would allow you to pay for food. You'd have to kill them first."

And so over French fries (which he reminds me are properly called "crisps" in Britain), he tells me that Syrians would return to the days before the war - that they don't need freedom this much - if only they could.
"America and Russia are fighting a war, did you know that?" he asks, dipping a Kentucky-fried chicken thigh in ketchup. "But they are fighting it in Syria, and there is no doubt which is giving the most support."

Helplessly, I listen as he tells me that Europe and America are marvelous places, where you can make life better if you only organize yourself, plan, and apply yourself. In Syria, he says, both now and before the five-year war that killed 300,000 people and counting and scattered millions like him across the globe, no such opportunities exist.

He asks for help selecting a pair of glasses, then he drops me off at my church for an evening meeting.
For the refugees remaining in Middle East, he says, "All we can do is pray."

Saturday, August 20, 2016

Onward to Britain!


"I am the happiest creature in the world. Perhaps other people have said so before, but not one with such justice. I am happier even than Jane; she only smiles, I laugh." - Jane Austen

You know that scene in the Keira Knightley version of "Pride and Prejudice," when Elizabeth Bennet first sees Mr. Darcy's estate, and she obstructs traffic while giving a ladylike giggle?
Picture me doing that - over and over again on Monday - but especially when I first saw New College, which is where the University of Edinburgh houses its School of Divinity.



As Keira Knightley says, "He he...hem!"
Because that means Lucy J. Schouten of Payson, Arizona, is receiving a postgraduate education - in a castle - with this view...


...living in a house that looks like this...




...with people who dress like this.


(I jest, this is a statue of the great economist Adam Smith, located on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh.)

Here is a short recap for those who are still (understandably!) confused about the strange path of a small-town Mormon girl who grew up here...


....then went to school here:

  1. I arrived in Edinburgh, Scotland, on Saturday. I left Boston one week prior, bidding farewell to dear friends (love you all - keep in touch!), a dysfunctional train system, and the best ice cream in the world. I spent a week in Arizona, then departed for the United Kingdom on Friday.
  2. I didn't decide to come until July. Late July. I had felt spiritually guided in this direction from the beginning, but only a surprising series of events made it financially and logistically possible. I am still not certain how it's all going to work - financially and logistically. But when the Lord opens a path using a gate you didn't even know existed, you step through even if there's a bend several feet (I mean - meters) ahead.
  3. I am attending the School of Divinity at the University of Edinburgh (hence the castle), but I am still a practicing member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (Mormons - would you like to know more?). In my case, Divinity School simply requires studying a religious topic. 
  4. It's a fairly new field, so if you don't remember anyone studying for a masters in World Christianity with an emphasis in Arab Christianity, it's because it hasn't really happened before. I am attending the University of Edinburgh because of its unique expertise. The lecturer I will work with on this topic is new to the university, and the program is just commencing for masters students.
  5. My research is based on my undergraduate honors thesis about Arab Christians in Jordan.

After all, this is what we're going for here:
 

Sunday, November 29, 2015

We gather together: Things to be grateful for

I hope the end of the Thanksgiving holiday break finds you and yours well!
I have had a number of adventures in recent weeks, and I intend to share a smattering of them in mostly visual form:
On Monday I took the commuter train to Manchester-by-the-Sea. Just repeat that name several times and let the romance wash over you. The name describes it – nothing more need be said.


My favorite things about Boston are: 1) People move so much here and no one has cars, so they leave their used furniture on the street. And it is socially acceptable to pick it up and take it away! And furnish your entire bedroom with it. And paint it. And create a little Anne of Green Gables bedroom because the roof is slanted. (As soon as I finish painting my new pieces and get my mother’s old lace curtains at Christmas, the resemblance will be charming – it is how I plan to cope with winter.) 
Manchester-by-the-Sea

2) The food (everyone raves about the canollis and ice cream so much you think it can’t possibly measure up. But then you try it). 
Manchester-by-the-Sea

3) Charlestown. It has a boardwalk and a classic New England harbor, the USS Constitution, and a ferry into North End.
A well-mannered Thanksgiving dinner at my cousin's with 13 people from church, a colleague from my work, and my cousin's classmates at MIT. I made the mashed potatoes and a British version of stuffing called Derby pudding.

Outside of Boston: I have done a reasonable amount of traveling considering my resources. My favorite place in Massachusetts is Concord. It has everything nice and is utterly charming, especially when covered with fall leaves. Salem was OK, but we went to an LDS Church camp up in New Hampshire that made me feel like the Earth had already received its paradisaical glory. We went rowing on a lake in the morning! 
Black Friday was free day at the beach in Ipswich. Naturally we ran along the beach playing "Chariots of Fire" on someone's phone, had a picnic of Thanksgiving leftovers, and were the only humans on the whole beach who dipped into the water.


I fulfilled a dream and visited Quincy to see the tombs of John and Abigail Adams. This is where John Adams was born.


Finally, in case anyone reading this wonders if all I do is play, I am including a few of what I consider some of my best articles for The Christian Science Monitor (You might have to go to this blog site to use the links.):
How does a Brazilian spider reveal our connection to Middle Earth?
Mormon mass resignation over LGBT rules: A big deal for the church?
Scientists tally Earth's hidden mega stashes of groundwater 
'Goodfellas' mafia trial: How mobsters became history's latest has-beens 
Puppy diplomacy? Why Russia and France work together against ISIS

Saturday, November 7, 2015

Haymarket


The scent of fish pervades the makeshift market, and the sea creatures in question sit on long tables in the open air, split open to display their pink insides and tempt the passerby. Big baskets of fresh blue crabs decorate the doorway to the cheese shop - open to crowds and offering samples of feta, both cow and sheep, if you smile right.
Asian students from Harvard and severe-looking Bostonian women with gray hair in buns and long, khaki coats amble or stride past the low tables of produce, and the vendors hawk their wares - fresh and otherwise - in a cacophony of Spanish, Arabic, Portuguese, and undiluted Bostonian.

Just a few steps off the "T" metro system and a stone's throw from the old quarter where the Sons of Liberty planned the Boston Tea Party is a market where enterprising Bostonians barter their way into a semi-honest living. They come every Friday and Saturday of the year, except Christmas and New Year's Day, and historians say they've been setting up on the cobblestones since the 1600s.
It's hard to know, though; in Haymarket nothing is sacrosanct.
"Does anyone heyah know what this fruit is?" one of the Bostonians holds up a strange-looking orange fruit no one was buying because it looked like a dinosaur egg. "This is called a keen-seh. This is the fruit that Eve gave to Adam in the Garden of Eden. This heyah is what got us into this mess."
Other vendors try more practical appeals, seizing on the good old-fashioned traditions of New England joint enterprise.
"Just one dollar here!" calls one, brandishing a cucumber in one hand and a stack of dollar bills in the other. "Pah-ticipate in the system, spend a dollar. Grow the economy, this is about free enterprise."
Catching my slight smile while I survey his fruit, he puts the cash away. "Christmas is coming, you know," he says, nodding seriously.
Other vendors are not above direct appeals.
"How can I help you, honey?" a young man asks me sweetly.
I tell him I am looking for celery. His colleague must think I am not good influence on sales.
"Try down there, Miss, those Chinese guys always have celery," he says and waves me off.
For all the chaos, rule of law prevails with astonishing rigidity. The prices are all written in permanent marker on bits of cardboard torn from the boxes the fruit came in, but usually operations are self-serve. I suppose if I really took off with a bunch of broccoli someone would notice, but perhaps when they see me wrestling with my grocery list and purse, arm already covered in bags of carrots and lettuce and my pencil skirt twisting up around my hips, they figure I'm a bigger danger to myself than a prospective parsley pincher.
I clumsily drop my quarters into a box of squash as I pay for the long-awaited celery.
"Just go on, I'll get it later," says the man with tattoos all the way up his arms.
A scuffle breaks out among the apples and asparagus. The Arabs and the Hispanics are fighting; the Arab young men have infringed upon the space of the Latina young women. A cardboard box has changed hands, and young men have taken off running in the direction of North End.
The venerable Hispanic matriarch puts her hands on her hips and shouts in Spanish at the venerable Arab patriarch, who looks strokes his beard in consternation and directs a milder Arabic remonstrance at the retreating backs of his progeny.
I watch for a moment until they sort things out, but the crowd keeps moving.

I walk on in search of onions, nearly ready to leave just $10 poorer, with bags full of produce from Haymarket. 

Sunday, October 25, 2015

Pawk yo' cawr


"Meg, I give you your faults."

"My faults!" Meg cried.

"Your faults."

"But I'm always trying to get rid of my faults!"

"Yes," Mrs. Whatsit said. "However, I think you'll find they'll come in very handy on Camazotz."

- Madeleine L'Engle, "A Wrinkle in Time"