Friday, December 28, 2012

A Passage to Israel (and Palestine)

Well, friends, I am home! I had the experience of a lifetime--3.5 months in Jordan, followed by two full weeks in Israel and Palestine. However, because of my internet situation, I was not always able to post everything I wanted, especially at the end. Therefore, I have had some requests to finish  things off--with more pictures! I hope everyone will indulge me with another couple of posts, in which I attach a few more---hopefully interesting!---photos of the Holy Land.

Our first day in Israel, we took a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee. It is smaller than I expected--much smaller than the Dead Sea, but still big enough to be a wild ride in a storm:) It was one of my favorite experiences there.

Would you have believed that this was the Middle East?
 The entire region (Jordan and Israel both)
experienced an unusual amount of rain that fall. I cursed it roundly in 2 languages while I was in Jordan (taxis become scarce when it rains in Jordan, and waiting on the street in the pouring rain for 20 minutes waiting for a taxi to get to school is مش كويس كتير) but we were rewarded with unprecedented, green loveliness and powerful waterfalls in northern Israel. This photo is from the land of Dan, near the headwaters of the Jordan River. We felt like we had stumbled into a Mediterranean paradise.
This crazy crew went geocaching in Israel. This is the geocache that we found on the Mount of the Precipice, where an angry crowd of Nazerenes tried to push Christ off after they rejected His teachings. "A prophet has no honor in His own country!" Also, we are looking down on the Jezreel Valley, where Barak and Deborah swept the opposing armies out of Israel in the Book of Judges, and Jael killed the commander by sticking a tent stake through his head.

Ever heard of a battle at a little place called Armageddon? This is the place!

One of my bucket list goals was to eat a falafel sandwich from a street vendor in Jerusalem...

When Christ says that a camel must go through the eye of a needle for a rich man to go to heaven, this is what He meant!

We met these darling girls at the Mt of Temptation outside Jericho. They were on a field trip from Ramallah, and they thought that 6 foot tall, Arabic-speaking, redheaded Lindsay was amazing!

When the Christian children get home from school, they take to the streets of Jerusalem!

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Far Far Away on Judea's Plains

   First of all, let  me set the record straight--there are no plains in Judea. The land is actually known as the "Judean Hills." I have pictures--but I can't upload them at this time. Since my last post was brief, I am including a piece of a report I had to write:
         As I had feared/suspected, the" little town of Bethlehem" was as full of an ambivalent mix of turmoil, pain, history, and magic as is Jerusalem. Perhaps this is because the cities are so close together—a 20 minute bus ride is all it takes to get from "Royal David's City" to his capital. My comment may be overdramatic, but everything was a strange mix of the peaceful Christmas or Palestinian message and the conflict.
  • The separation wall is sterile cement on one side, but the other side is covered with lovely, politically-charged graffiti.
  • The large "countdown to Christmas" sign in Manger Square is posted on a building next to a large mosque, complete with minaret.  
  • The Nativity scene I purchased features a happy Holy Family on one side, and on the other, a separation wall with Wise Men trying to get in.
  • My picture with the large Christmas tree in Manger Square features several rifle-wielding soldiers.
  • A week before Christmas, I spent the day in Bethlehem and--I am actually not supposed to disclose full details until I return to the US. Remind me then.

           Yet, I believe that this conflict and contrast perhaps provides a more apt Christmas message than Santa Claus and families gathering for food, or even than sharing and generosity. After all, "when Joseph went to Bethlehem," the land was disputed land. There were conquerors and soldiers and weapons, radicals and zealots and religious extremists then, too. To cap it all off, it was tax season!

    And the government was getting in the way of life then as now—yesterday, we heard from a woman whose home is walled on three sides by the new wall. She once lived on Main Street, but it has now become a secluded ghost town. She waited out 40 days of shelling inside her home with her 5 children, but even when the Intifada stopped, her husband's business (he was a car mechanic) crashed. Now, she makes handicrafts to survive and support her family. (She actually makes lovely blessing gowns, among other things. If you would like to support her, order online at www.baptismgarment.com).
        Joseph was very likely a stonecutter, called upon to move to Severus to help build the new city. He was a newlywed, not a wealthy man, and he had to take his wife far away from her friends and family, to have her child in a strange land in a dark cave inhabited by sheep because Caesar Augustus said so. The Holy Land has not changed all that much—people still knock down other people's houses and build on top of them using the rubble. And the people still need "a Savior, who is Christ the Lord."  

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

O Little Town of Bethlehem

    I was very excited to visit Bethlehem just a week before Christmas. It's a nice city, much closer to Jerusalem than I had expected--20 minutes by bus, perhaps, if you're American and do not get stopped at the wall checkpoint (3 hours if you're Palestinian, of course, but that is another story). It was nice to see all the Christmas decorations, including the Christmas tree and the Christmas countdown at Manger Square. We visited the Church of the Holy Nativity, which was a beautiful, lovely experience.
   We also went to Shepard's Field and heard from Sahar Qumseyeh, the Relief Society president of Jerusalem. I am running out of power now, so here are the photos of Jerusalem and Bethlehem:
     





Monday, December 17, 2012

Today in Jerusalem

   I have been feeling guilty for weeks now about not posting anything, and this will be a sad and boring post because technological constraints prevent my adding any photos, but I hope you'll forgive me---I feel like doing this at all is quite brave because my blogging dashboard here translated itself into Hebrew and it took four tries to even figure out how to add a new post!
  So, Item 1, I have spent the last week and a half in the great (but small---I am still trying to get used to distances, or the lack thereof, in the Middle East) state of Israel. I spent my last week in dear Jordan in a flurry of packing, taking finals, saying sad goodbyes, and last-minute choir rehearsals. And then, in an arduous (in my opinion) but unusually simple (my professor's) process, we headed west.
   In Israel, I have done the following:
  • Gone wading in the Mediterranean Sea, overlooked by Roman aqueduct ruins
  • Chatted with some Israeli/Americans about the Israeli/Palestinian conflict while in the ruins of the magical ancient city of Ceserea
  • Seen the walls of Jericho
  • Been to Armeggedon (it's gorgeous, actually--a lovely green hilly country)
  • Ascended the steps of the ruins of a real fake temple in Dan (the one King Jeroboam built so that his new Israelite nation could properly worship a--surprise! Golden calf)
  • Taken a bath (I felt really guilty for using that much water in the West Bank, but we hadn't seen a bathtub in months!)
  • Slept in a convent in Nazereth
  • Met a charming nun in Nazereth. She gave us a tour of the ruined Crusader castle/Byzantine church/1st century house underneath her convent. She kept telling us not to touch anything.
  • Spent two hours chatting with some Israeli Arab Christians at the big fashion mall at Nazereth
  • Hiked around the headwaters of the Jordan River
  • Swam in the Sea of Galilee ("I swam today where Jesus walked. So I guess I've got a long ways to go!")
  • Driven through an Israeli West Bank checkpoint
  • Contemplated mass suicide at Masada
  • Got stuck in traffic in the new old city of Tel Aviv
  • Eaten some of the best food any Arab could imagine
  • And much, much more---pictures and explanatory stories to follow, in she' Allah
   However, since last Thursday, we've been in Jerusalem!!
    The Jerusalem Center is basically like a cross between a Middle Eastern palace, BYU, and Hogwarts, so far as I am concerned. My friend and I even found a Room of Requirement the other day. Our adventures in Jerusalem have included:
  • Dancing with some very kind Jews at the Western Wall after sundown on Shabbat
  • Getting yelled at by some less kind Israelis for consenting to listen to some left-wing political views
  • Eating the best falafel sandwich I have ever eaten in the Old City, near the Damascus Gate
  • Playing the best organ in the Middle East, thank you Dr. Harris!

Saturday, December 1, 2012

Kidnapped By Syrian Refugees!

     I had some internet problems last week, so I could not blog, but we'll try again today. Also, as for the security update: currently it looks like our trip to Israel and Palestine will proceed as planned. We will hopefully leave next Friday morning.
    And now, here's a quick overview of a couple of recent adventures:
My issues class decided to have an unofficial cultural immersion day in class:) Here we are in full native dress, learning to dance the Dibka

  • Last Monday: LDS Charities, BYU Jordan, and a group of Syrian refugees who who all have psychological training have teamed up for a number of different projects. For instance, we have all participated in a language exchange with some of the Syrian teenagers who are stuck in Amman. This Monday, however, our professor's wife let several of us come to a children's event. Basically, we played with the children, chatting with them and watching them draw  pictures. We even all got our faces painted with symbols of Syrian nationalism, which was interesting. The children were charming, although it was strange to think about what they had been through. For instance, one lovely little girl with soft dark curls drew her home in Syria, but in addition to the house, the trees, the little stick-figure child, and the smiling sun she drew, she added a large green helicopter, shooting fireballs down onto the little house.There were other sad things: for the last half hour, they reconvened for an activity that I can only describe as a cross between a Primary meeting and a political rally. The children all sang songs and chanted about freedom, Syria, the will of Allah, and, most importantly, the fall of "the regime." One little girl started crying half-way through her song. She finished singing about the beauty of Syria with tears streaming down her cheeks, and one of the adults whispered to us that her mother had been killed by the regime before they were able to flee Syria.
  • Here we all are with some of our Syrian friends who we have done lots of projects with
     
  • That Thursday, we all went to a Syrian refugee camp in the north of Jordan. It was a very small, very nice one (we had originally planned to go to Zaateri--the big, new one, but they were having too many riots). We put on a puppet show in Jordanian Arabic---I played the mother puppet in this one. And here's the second one that the other group put on (You can actually see me the entire time on this one---I sat with the children doing crowd control, and my blue turban--all the girls had to be fully modest to go, which means hair was covered---is at the bottom of the screen:) Anyway, it was one of the funnest things we have done! While we were waiting for the second puppet show to start, I saw a little girl come in, and I started playing with her with my puppet. Soon, I had approximately 12 little Syrian girls sitting around me, plus one little boy on my lap, and we were all chatting away about the puppet show and what they wanted to be when they grew up. For crowd control, I sat with 2 children on my lap, and when the show was finished a group of five of them grabbed my hands and tried to pull me away to go visit their houses. I protested and said the bus was going to leave soon (which was true), so they escorted me to the bus. Several students had to stand at the doors of the bus to prevent the children from boarding, and they all waved and ran after the bus when it started to pull away.

This is our Irbid branch, where we have attended church for months. Yesterday was our last day, so we took a group photo. The senior missionaries who are called to the branch are sitting in front. Also, I gave a talk in Sacrament meeting yesterday, which was terrifying. It went really well though, and I will never be nervous for a talk back in the States again, having had to do one in Arabic:)

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Happy Thanksgiving!

  Well, I'm not dead yet! In fact, the protests are starting to die down in Jordan, as the citizenry slowly realize that life, sadly, is just going to get a lot harder.
    This is just a quick update with a few videos, courtesy of Scott Gemmel.
   First, we have the video which he took on "Thanksgiving Day." I'm sorry that my part wasn't more---touching. I didn't realize what exactly he was taking video for.
     Also, here is the video for the first day of our big field trip a couple weeks ago. That was probably one of my absolute favorite days in Jordan, so enjoy! I even have a line in this one! He also got some great footage of us hiking down the siege tunnel to the bottom of the hill. (I'm the one wearing the green turban.)
    All I will say is, everything looked even more magnificent in real life than this video. And those castles made me feel like I might see Aslan any moment!
    And here's another video where we all go down into a Crusader-era wine cellar, because hiking down into dangerous tunnels of unknown origin and destination is what BYU students do best! I'm the only female voice there:)
   In short, I think we put Indiana Jones to shame!

Friday, November 16, 2012

Middle Eastern Security Report

Waiting at the Irbid bus station for the Home-teaching trip   
    This has been an eventful week in every sense of the word! The Jordanian government decided to stop subsidizing several basic goods (which they have been doing for years), and the public responded with violent protests. We are actually under neighborhood arrest for the whole weekend, because random and violent protests have been popping up all over the downtown area, including the shopping area near the school where I usually accompany for a Christian children's choir. The US Embassy has issued a travel warning for Jordan, and church was cancelled today as well. And yet, the whole situation still feels surreal, because I honestly haven't seen any of it!
   Then, there's the rest of the Middle East: Syrian conflict spilling over into Israel, Israel shelling them back---twice. Hamas also decided that this was a good time to start bombing Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, with Israel responding---forcefully. The personal application? BYU IR people have alerted Elder Jeffery R. Holland to our situation, and there is a 50% chance that our trip to Israel and Palestine will be cancelled. And to top it  all off, there's a remote chance that some of us BYU students will go home for Christmas and not even be American citizens anymore:)
   And so, having done my duty to international affairs, I return to my adventures in Jordan, which are as follows:
  • On Sunday, winter began--it got cold and started raining! For some reason, it didn't occur to me to bring an umbrella to the Middle East, so I spent all of Monday sloshing around school and spreading various clothing articles all over my classroom to try and dry them out. Thank goodness for layers! And here's a picture to prove it:
  •  Sunday is Hometeaching Day, even in Jordan. I and 3 of my fellow Irbidites made the 1.5 hour long trek by bus Al-Husn, where we visited with several families in the branch. I gave my part of the lesson then and hung out with the RS president and her 2 daughters, ages 19 and 21, which was great fun. The biggest difference between Hometeaching in Jordan and America? In Jordan, they feed you dinner! We were presented with Magloubeh (Imagine a pizza pan with a huge mound of rice dumped onto it, studded with meat, potatoes, and eggplant, and cooked in chicken broth. The Arabic yoghurt and Arabic cucumber salad are also included.) Arab hospitality is real--I am constantly amazed by how generous the Jordanians can be with their time, their love, and their food.
  • Thursday was the Islamic New Year, so we only had one class because our Jordanian teachers had a break. Therefore, we celebrated Thanksgiving a week early! All the BYU students, senior missionaries, and LDS marines "gathered together" in the early afternoon for marvelous feast.We're supposed to be "living in Thanksgiving daily," anyway, right?
  • But on the way to Thanksgiving dinner, I committed the unpardonable. You see, a woman who I met at the Greek Orthodox church about a month ago directs a children's choir, but finding a pianist in Jordan can be difficult. So, she asked me to be the accompanist, even changing the date of the Christmas concert so that I can attend. I have been attending rehearsals for several weeks now, which has been great fun, partly because she is a lovely person who I enjoy spending time with, and partly because playing Christmas hymns is lovely. I had no idea how much I would use music here in Jordan! I have been astonished by how many times we have been asked to sing, or play the piano, or direct choirs. All those Young Women's lessons about developing-your-talents-because-you-just-never-know are coming back to me:) 

That's me and the daughter of the choir director. She moved the rehearsal to her home for security reasons. 
                Anyway, I decided to go by the choir director's house before Thanksgiving dinner to practice on her piano, but when I arrived, she announced that she had only made a light breakfast because her relations were coming over later so we could all have a nice lunch of mansef before she sent us on our way! (And by the way, "light" did not accurately describe the breakfast.) I repeat, Arab hospitality is real!
  • Since church was cancelled, we all gathered at our professor's apartment today to eat Thanksgiving leftovers. On my way home, I was invited into the neighbor's apartment, since I have made friends with the children who live there. I told them about building snowmen, and they admired my hair (being a blonde here can be quite fun) and taught me how to do math in Arabic while we had some cake. I chatted with their mother, too, and she wanted to know about my religion, since they are Christian. I told her as much as I dared, which wasn't much, but she was understanding. She must have approved, too, because just as I was about to say I should leave, she said they were just sitting down to lunch, and had I ever tried mansef? 
    With wonderful people like this, is it any wonder that, despite the turmoil that literally rages around this area, I do not want to leave?

Saturday, November 10, 2012

In Which I Ride A Camel


 

         Sorry about the long wait! My internet doesn't always function at a high enough level to allow blogging.

          I realized to my horror that my last post missed one of the most important parts of our trip to the south of Jordan---the camel ride! I almost didn't do it because I dislike riding horses so much, but we were in Wadi Mujib (location of the filming, and more importantly, the real-life events of the famous movie, "Lawrence of Arabia!"), so I thought I'd better try it. Actually, I loved it! It was rather comfortable and felt quite safe and clean. I loved the feeling of power from being way up on a convenient camel, and I was impressed by the ease with which the desert steed traversed the dunes. I also made friends with our Bedouin guide, Abu Hamid. He started singing to the camels, and I asked him to teach me. And so, friends, I rode my camel across the sand dunes of Jordan, singing with a Bedouin in broken Bedoo Arabic about, "the blue-eyed Amrikaani on the camel oh my darling!"
         Last weekend was a blast--I and two friends were invited to the Halloween party at the Greek Orthodox church in Amman. So, in full costume, off we went! It was a great Halloween party--we danced to Egyptian music (although I still don't really understand the rhythm of Arabic music. Several times, we Americans just started swing-dancing or the Mackerina!), ate Jordanian baked goods for dinner, and even had a wonderful chocolate cake, full of whipped cream and studded with chocolate chunks. We finally had to tear ourselves away from our Arab friends after 11 and head home.
      Today, we went to Ajloun and conquered yet another castle, only Ajloun was built by the nephew of Sala-Addin, not the Christian crusaders. I am including this picture for 2 reasons--1) It shows Taskkeel-Gilead, the birthplace of Elijah the prophet, and 2) to dispel any rumors that Jordan can't be green. We had rain and fog all day!



     Last but certainly not least, we went to an Ammonite watchtower in Amman and found a geocache. I call that a good day!

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

I Walked Today Where Harrison Ford Walked*


 I just returned from an absolutely amazing trip to the south of Jordan. It was a 4-day trip, but classes start up again tomorrow morning. We had so many amazing experiences, which I have no hope of cataloguing fully if I want to be ready for class tomorrow, but let me get some high points:
  • We visited 2 Crusader's castles called Kerak and Shobak. My favorite was Shobak, the second one, where there is a wonderful secret tunnel leading from the castle to the bottom of the hill on which it is built. It took about 10 minutes to make the full descent, but it was thrilling to be in a real castle, and I may or may not have made several references to things like "The Chronicles of Narnia.
  • I walked through the Canyon of the Crescent Moon to seek the Holy Grail! All I have to say about Petra is, neither the pictures, nor the movie "Indiana Jones: The Last Crusade" do it justice. There's just so much to see, and it's so exotic and majestic.
  • I achieved one of my primary goals in life by wearing a turban made from a lovely Pashmina scarf, purchased from a lovely Bedouin grandmother in Petra
   Also, for those who are interested in olivewood Nativity sets, here is the video of the trip we took to the store where they're made. 
         And if you're not totally worn out yet, here's a really nice video from our very first trip to Madaba, Mount Nebo (the real one!), the Dead Sea, and the baptismal site on the Jordan River, courtesy of Scott Gemmel. (I'm the one in the large hat and the tiger shirt.)
* I have to attribute this highly appropriate quote to my friend and classmate, Chelsea Elliott

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Mother of Bullets أم الرصاص

  


    Pardon my late posting! We have had some internet problems the last couple of days, and this is my first opportunity to blog. To make up for my lateness, I am posting a link to a video that my classmate (actually he is the resident camera man for research purposes) made of our trip on Saturday. (I am wearing a pink shirt.) I am also giving you extra-large pictures, it seems---our -fixed freshlyinternet can only do so much:)
    I actually planned Saturday's trip (I am still trying to collect everybody's money!) to Mukawir (or Muwakir in Arabic--we keep mixing them up) and Am Rasas, which is actually a wonderful, still-in-the-process-of-being-excavated Byzantine village with magnificent mosaics, but its name in Arabic translates to "mother of bullets."
     Mukawir is the ruined palace/temple of King Herod, where Salome did the Dance of the 7 Veils for the head of John the Baptist. Here I am with some of the other girls trying to recreate the scene---we actually kept most of our veils on, but our professor still said the performance was worth several heads!

     Overall, despite the challenges, it was such a great trip! The palace is on its own mountain in the middle nowhere, and we took a bus to it and had to hike the rest of the way. Afterward, we hiked down into some of the many natural/improved caves where, as the story goes, John the Baptist was actually imprisoned.
     If you really enjoyed the last video, here's another one of the trip we took to Wadi Seer.

    

Monday, October 8, 2012

Modified House Arrest



       I have been asked to include more pictures in this blog, so I am starting things off with a photo of the BYU Jordan 2012 mascot! This is Bissa (the Jordanian word for cat) or Aladdin. We found a tiny, 4-week old kitten on the street by my friend's house one night--3 baths, a vet visit, and several weeks later, the rapidly growing feline is firmly installed at my classmate's apartment. (He is going to our Jordanian professor's home when we leave). He spent several days at my apartment, though.
   This post might be a bit political, but it's mostly Jordanian politics, so I don't think I can offend anybody too much. Yesterday (Friday/Sunday) was an interesting day, and we were put under a sort of modified house arrest for security reasons. Church in the Irbid branch was cancelled, and so was the Arabic-speaking branch, so we all went to the ex-patriate branch at 8:30 AM. Here we are in front of the church building in Amman (that's my new Jordanian dress--it was so difficult to find something that would fit me! The poor salesman had to go back to storage to find a shirt, and he only had one in my size.
 
  The reason was this: The Arab Spring has not really made its way to Jordan (my professor says it is because Jordanians remember the horrors of their recent civil wars too well to want to do it again), but the combined weight of a bad economy, the new pressure of 200,000 Syrian refugees on Jordan, and the usual complaints about the government are causing political stress. They pushed some new laws on Parlimentary election through last summer, to be implemented some time this year--nobody knows exactly when. (I would try and explain Parlimentary election laws, but I have recently concluded that no one actually understands them, and they make the electoral college look like the most logical and democratic system in the world).
     Everyone was quite worried--the US embassy increased its security (again) and shut down for the day, the Arab Greek Orthodox church cancelled services, and we were confined to the neighborhood. (I was rather disappointed, as we had to cancel our dinner engagement with a nice investigator family up in Irbid.) The police set up a perimeter around the downtown area, complete with machine guns, some of which we saw. The King also dismissed the Parliament yesterday morning---I still don't quite understand that political move, and I am trying to imagine the American response if President Obama told Congress that they could just go home.
Eating authentic chocolate chip cookies at Taj Mall in Amman on Thursday night



   Of course, it was rather frightening, and we all gave special prayers for the people of Jordan in church. At the same time, it was rather interesting to be here for it. And the news has been encouraging--the counter-demonstration was cancelled at the last minute, and only 10,000 people showed up to protest. We heard some things coming from loudspeakers, but didn't see anything (I live in the suburbs, so to speak.)
     Meanwhile, the BYU students had a group dinner together at another apartment. This is the view off of their balcony, looking out over Dahiat Al-Rasheed. Despite portents of doom, our day of modified house arrest was actually quite lovely.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Get Me to the Church

    Upon reflection, I realized that I have attended 6 different churches in the last week! Do you think I'm saved yet? Two of them, admittedly, were actually of my own denomination, but the other 4 covered the Islamic, Coptic Christian, Greek Orthodox, and Protestant faiths. The last shall be first here, though, because I have had some requests to describe the district conference which occurred in the Irbid/Al-Hussan branch yesterday.

   Everyone from Amman (the Amman Arabic speakers, the branch president of Irbid, and the BYU crowd) took a bus (kindly chartered by the Church) to Irbid, which is where I go every week, although it is about an hour and a half away.
    I was especially excited for this conference because, after a month of stress and two very intense rehearsals, the choir I had been asked to put together would be performing. Dress code had been a bit of an issue--"Sunday best" is a foreign (pun intended) concept in the Middle East, so I was really hoping to use the performance as a teaching opportunity for good church attire.
   When I arrived, however, two of the BYU girls in the choir told me I was wearing the wrong clothes, so my roommate and I had to rush into the church, find a restroom, and switch her long black dress for my blue one---all the girls in the choir were in a black dress or skirt, and all the men were in white shirts and slacks.
   The choir sounded lovely. I was so happy with what we able to accomplish. All of the unmarried people in the branch were part of the choir. Most of them were late/barely on time so I spent 45 minutes in fear of no one coming, but almost everyone who had rehearsed with us came. It was the first LDS musical number in Arabic by the branch in Jordan! Conducting choir rehearsals in Arabic was a huge challenge that left me fairly exhausted, and none of the Arab members read music at all, but we sang, "How Great Thou Art" in Arabic, and it was beautiful. Here is the choir (or at least as many of them as I was able to tear away from the food for a photo), standing in front of the church building:
   The conference itself was really neat, as  it was the first district conference in Arabic. The only English was from the members of the 70 who came to speak to us. We even sang the hymns in Arabic, led by yours truly. 
   Of course, there were a few interesting moments: The piano decided to turn off right as we tried to begin the closing hymn. I was very glad that they fixed it, as I am not ready to sing "God Be With You Til We Meet Again" in Arabic, a capella, in front of a roomful of people which included several general authorities and my entire Arabic class! We also laughed when one of the 70 (most of the talks were about appropriately mixing local culture with the Gospel) emphasized the need for gender equality in marriage. The district president from Lebanon, who was translating, stopped, laughed, and told him that he didn't even know of an Arabic word for gender equality!
   My other religious experiences included: a musical prayer meeting in Arabic (hallelujah!), a visit to the beautiful Al-Abdullah mosque, singing hymns with some classmates to try out the gorgeous acoustics in the Coptic church, a branch social in Amman, and a party at the Greek Orthodox Church, where they handed out pomegranates (they symbolize church unity--the individual members are the seeds inside the whole) and played the bagpipes!


    

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Heading for the Hills

  Last Saturday, we decided to leave the hustle and bustle of Amman behind and take to the hills. Our destination: Wadi Seer, a suburb of Amman where the donkeys still roam freely (actually, donkeys are reasonably common in Amman, too, although they have to dodge the taxis and autobeeses). We took a public bus out of town--I enjoyed every minute of the ride out--relative to Amman, the hills outside the city were incredibly green and beautiful. Jordan is not really known for its natural beauty, but the fig, olive, and pomegranate trees  and rolling hills where people still practice the terraced farming that has been their livelihood for centuries is a real treat.
       We stopped to explore an ancient palace with Hellenistic leanings. Biblically speaking, we were in the land given to the tribe of Reuben. The palace itself was built by the same family who opposed the return of the Jews to Jerusalem in the book of Ezra. The palace has been partially reconstructed, and it was quite impressive. The pictures do not do it justice--there is a whole family of lions/panthers carved into the sides, and in its glory days there were fountains with water pouring out of the cats' mouths.
  We took a short hike up to some ancient caves (there were even some Hebrew inscriptions on the walls), but along the way, we met some lovely small-town Arab women. I am really coming to respect Arab hospitality--these kind women wasted no time before greeting us warmly then handing us figs from their tree and even the candy bars they had been eating!
   Next, we visited Iraq Al-Amir, which is a center where rural women were taught how to handmake paper, rugs, pottery etc and it has now become a self-sustaining business so that these women can support themselves. It was all quite interesting, and I bought a beautiful purple rug that they assured me had been handwoven from local sheep (although I did not see any purple sheep during the hike, so I have a few doubts about the authenticity of all their materials).
    That night, we had a "barbeque" at the church building. All of the senior missionaries and students attended, and we had a half American/half Jordanian potluck dinner. I even made fool medames. My roommate and I braved our frightening gas stove to try and cook the dish.
    Like everything in Jordan, it was an adventure. But I am so glad I did it. 

Sunday, September 16, 2012

Facebook فاسبوك

    Those readers who know me well may be surprised by this question, so let me explain. Five days a week, I attend a class with 7 fellow BYU students called "Issues class." It is taught by an Arabic professor, and it's a discussion in Modern Standard Arabic. And it is quite challenging, but that is a topic for another day.
   Topics for discussion have included marriage, stereotypes about the Arab world and America, Jordanian food (and we had a potluck party with native food), the role of the press, tribal justice, Arab family structure, and the architecture of the University of Jordan, shown here:

   This week's topic is the media, and we will be discussing Facebook's role in the Arab Spring, among other things. And we are supposed to collect feedback to bring to our discussion, so all of your comments are appreciated. Here is the question:

Does Facebook have a role in political change?

Friday, September 14, 2012

The High Point




  1. We are safe and well! In light of the events which occurred in neighboring countries in the last week, BYU has asked us to reassure anyone who might be concerned that Jordan, unlike virtually  all its neighbors, remains apparently peaceful (unless, of course you count the traffic). Alhamdullillah.
  2. My roommates and I just returned from the roof (the source of today's title, "the high point"), where we could see the city of Amman in its nightly glory. We can hear the call to prayer from two sources, and the (dare I say it? musical) voices blend together as the sounds bounce off the hills of Amman. They have a lot of "Christmas lights" here as well, especially lighted stars and crescents in green, which is the color of Islam. The only thing that might have made it better is if I could have understood the words, but perhaps in the future in she Allah. Actually, I had a  Biblical insight up there as well: I have always wondered why Bathsheba was bathing on her roof, and what King David was doing walking around on his, but now I completely understand.
  3.  Another "high point:" Last Saturday we visited The Citadel, which has ruins from Ammonite, Roman, Umayyad, and Byzantine civilizations, to name a few. One of the best things about it is that you can climb all over 2000 year-old ruins, whereas in the US you would probably just read the sign and gaze from behind a fence. However, these ruins do all have signs with "From the American People" stamped on them--as a general rule, the Jordanians do not care much for these sights. Several people have actually asked me why Americans are always coming to Jordan to take pictures of old buildings!
This is actually the place where Uriah was killed after King David sent him to the front lines of the battle against the Ammonites, whose palace/fortress was on top of this hill.
This is the "modern" museum on top of the Citadel. It just seems like the sort of place that might store the Ark of the Covenant.

   One of my favorite things was the Roman theater near the Citadel. The acoustics were fantastic! Our professor (shown here) sang several songs for our enjoyment, and I entertained my classmates by reciting a couple of choice lines from Shakespeare.

Friday, September 7, 2012

The Low Point



  

    Last Saturday, my travels in the Middle East hit a low point--we swam in the Dead Sea! At approximately 400 m under sea level, the Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth. We sang, "Under the Sea," and it was fun.
     I had heard that you could float with great ease and the Dead Sea, but I was still surprised when my feet left the bottom and flew up to the surface--and stayed there! It was actually quite relaxing because you could literally lay out on the water and, without any effort whatsoever, float in perfect, salty, comfort. I collected a few salt rocks from the crystallizations that lined the shore, as well.
      We also applied some of the famous Dead Sea mud liberally. This annoyed the local mud vendor, because we cheap college students collected our own "dirty" mud rather than buying his "clean" mud!
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/303516_10152087134190858_1299147834_n.jpg?dl=1
   However, before we could do that, we had to get our cultural/historical/Biblical education, of course! We began our journey by taking the King's Highway out to Madaba. This highway is the oldest known in the world (although it has seen a few improvements in recent years--asphalt, for instance). I could just picture Moses leading the Children of Israel across the hills I saw on either side, probably staying in similar abodes to the Bedouin tents I saw (see Numbers 21-22).
   In Madaba, we saw a very famous mosaic which features a map of the entire Holy Land made by Byzantine Christians. It was a little rushed though, so I want to return.
       Mt. Nebo, where Moses looked down one the Promised Land for the last time and was then translated, was our next trip. The day was hazy because of pollution, but we could still see Amman, the Dead Sea, the Jordan River, Jericho, and even the hills on which Jerusalem sits.
      We were able to see the Jordan River in much greater detail a little later though, when we descended down  to the possible Baptism Site of Christ. Obviously, they don't know precisely where on the Jordan River this took place, partly because nobody really recorded the exact site, and partly because the Jordan River has changed its course three times in the last century alone. However, archaeologists have recently discovered the ruins of the church which the Byzantines built to commemorate the site, and we visited that.
    My professor sang us a charming rendition of "Swing Low, Sweet Chariot," and we also sang, "Jesus Came to John the Baptist." Goodness, but it was hot! We joked that anyone who visited this site would understand  the need for baptism by immersion.
    Politically, the site is interesting because the Jordan site and the Israel site are only separated by about five feet of very dirty, green river water. There were also interesting spiritual reflections, because, especially since everybody has been damming the river lately, and this is a dry season in a dry year, the site was not overly impressive. I admit I understand Naaman's objection to Elijah's order to dip 7 times in the Jordan River and be healed!
      Still, my cold finally cleared up after this trip, so perhaps my dip in holy water did me good in more ways than one. I was also impressed with the idea that the Savior, who could have chosen Iguacu or Niagra Falls, sought John the Baptist at the lowly Jordan, because priesthood authority means more than scenery.
   And now, if any of you have noticed my attire on this trip with amusement, must assure you that you are not alone! When we stopped for lunch at a Middle Eastern buffet, one of the Arab servers asked me how I liked the food, Jordan, etc. I could not understand why he kept looking at me so strangely, though, until he asked, in halting English, "So, you have tigers on?"
Yes friends, I did.
     
   

Friday, August 31, 2012

I'll Go Where You Want Me To Go

  Today was Friday, which, in the Arab world, means that we attended church for the first time.There are 3 branches in Jordan--one Arabic-speaking and one English-speaking in Amman, and one in Irbid, about an hour away. The top photo is at the Amman building.
       I and five other students were selected to serve and support the small branch (50 people, but 21 were there today) in Irbid. The senior missionaries gave us a ride and told us about their work here during the drive. They were originally serving in Lebanon, but they have been transferred here to handle all the logistics of the Church's humanitarian work in the Syrian refugee camps in Jordan. It is incredibly daunting work--people come in groups of as many as 4000 a night, sneaking across the border with only what they can carry, trying to avoid the snipers who try to prevent their escape. They have nothing once they arrive here, and although the Gulf States are pouring money into the camps for supplies and medical care, they are completely overwhelmed. Still, the missionaries are wonderful and fascinating people.
       I am very excited about serving in this branch. We all introduced ourselves in sacrament meeting--in Arabic! I have been called to do the music, as per usual. I found the digital piano and randomly turned to "I'll Go Where You Want Me To Go," which seemed rather appropriate, given the circumstances.
   The branch president is a colorful character. He asked one of my classmates to teach the investigator (there are actually a lot!) Sunday school class next week. "Give them the lesson about where we are and where we are going," he directed. "And tell them that they are going to hell if they don't join this branch. They can find out the truth later, but right now I just need people!" He also tried to interview the other pianist and me about our worthiness together--or at least, he tried to, but after we helped him search his priesthood handbook for the interview questions without success, he gave up and just asked us whether we were worthy to serve callings. It's good to know that the Church is true everywhere:)
    We are supposed to lead the music in church, using a small and very rough collection of Arabic hymn translations, which he referred to as occasionally "heretical." He also wants me to give piano lessons. In Arabic. Without any materials. To people who can't read music and don't use Western melodies. It will be an adventure!
   He also wants us to prepare a choir selection for the conference of all the Arabic-speaking branches in Jordan at the end of September. He said he had tried it unsuccessfully once before, but he wants me to direct the group to sing "How Great Thou Art" in Arabic. I have never directed a choir before, much less in Arabic, and with people who have not grown up with Western music at all. Help! Any advice?
    So, this will be a huge challenge, but I am incredibly excited! The members are kind, the drive to Irbid is beautiful (Picture the rolling hills and valleys in the Old Testament videos!) and it was surprisingly wonderful just to see familiar photos of New Testament scenes and General Authorities and take the sacrament on pita bread.